27 Apr 2012 07.19.15 PM
Admiring Sunset, Big Bend National Park http://www.flickr.com/photos/atbaker/5487962974/ By AlphaTangoBravo / Adam Baker © Some rights reserved
Although largely undeveloped, Persimmon Gap has just enough visitor centers, dayhikes, short nature walks, auto trails, and roadside exhibits to make for an interesting, easygoing visit. Persimmon Gap Visitor Center is open most of the year and offers park orientation and information. About 29 miles down the road, the Panther Junction Visitor Center offers extensive displays and includes a bookstore with a wide array of Big Bend literature and guide books.
Those looking to get a little hiking in will enjoy Dog Canyon or Devil's Den, two popular day hikes leading to two distinctively different, but neighboring canyons in the Santiago Mountains. Another rewarding hike can be found in the equally primitive trail up Persimmon Gap Draw towards Persimmon Peak. This hike starts close to Big Bend's northern entrance, so consider hiking this trail upon exiting or entering the park. Sun and heat in Big Bend can be scorching and deadly, so hiking during the early summer month's is not recommended. Temperatures soar above 100 degrees in the summer and most of these trails are very exposed, so "hiker beware". No matter the season, carry plenty of water and dress for rapidly changing weather.
For those seeking “the road less traveled”, Dagger Flat Auto Trail provides 14 miles of quintessential cactus hunting and desert exploration which culminates in a thick-leaved bushy forest of Giant Dagger Yuccas. Dagger Flats is open to all vehicles, however it tends to be bumpy and very sandy near the end of the road. One of the rewards of taking this route is that you can see a number of unique plant species in a fairly short period of time, such the dinosaur plant, spiny ocotillo and fragrant creosote. Over 1,200 species of plants can be found in Big Bend.
Be sure to get a copy of the information guide published by the Big Bend Natural History Association at the beginning of the route which details the plants of Dagger Flat Trail. The guide will get you out of the car to scout out desert flora such as the dinosaur plant, which is one of the oldest species of plant on earth, having existed for nearly 300 million years. The plant gets its name from its coexistence with dinosaurs during the Carboniferous period. Because of its ability to survive for many years without water, it is also referred to as the 'resurrection plant'.
On Route 385, along the 29-miles between Persimmon Gap and Panther Junction, there are a number of roadside exhibits, including the Fossil Bone Exhibit. Big Bend as a whole represents a world-class arena for geology and the Fossil Bone Exhibit offers scenic views of some of the park's oldest exposed rock and replicas of various fossilized bones found in the area. Fossils date back 50 million years and include not just dinosaurs but sponges, brachiopods, ancient reptiles, and mammals. Perhaps the most famous of Big Bend’s fossil treasures is the giant flying reptile with a wingspan over 35 feet. A replica of the bones of one wing can be found on exhibit nearby at the Panther Junction Visitor Center.
Dog Canyon hike begins at a pullout beside the highway, 3.5 miles south of the park entrance at Persimmon Gap. The canyon is clearly visible to the east as a distinct cleft in the Santiago Mountains, separated by a dead flat desert plain. Follow the cairned trail 1.4 miles across this shadeless desert plain until the path drops downstream into Nine Point Draw, a dry, stony wash that leads to the canyon. Once inside the canyon, cliffs provide a shade for the length of the gorge, which is less than a half mile. Look for small caves in the canyon walls as you travel along the wide bends into the barren desert landscape on the far side of the hills, where the hike ends. On the far side of the canyon, the view is amazing and resurrection plants can be spotted on the hillsides to your far right.
The zig-zag outline of Devil's Den is visible from some distance away, cutting through an otherwise flat, inclined plateau. “The Narrows” of Devil's Den are reached after a slightly more strenuous hike further up the wash, past some rocky areas. Here the gorge turns into a sheer-walled ravine, its limestone walls enclosing the streambed which is mostly bare rock, boulders, and a few bushes.
It's important to note that there are no marked trails through the narrows, and plenty of obstacles to overcome – be prepared to boulder hop and keep an eye out where you are going. The upper end of the ravine suddenly opens up to the northern part of Dagger Flat, a wide yucca-filled valley. Devil's Den tends to be greener and shadier than Dog Canyon since more water is retained and the canyon is more sheltered.
The following maps are most definitely required for this hike – USGS Grapevine Hills, McKinney Springs, Roys Peak, and San Vicente, however, the National Park Service recommends consulting “100 Classic Hikes in Texas Guide Book” for additional detailed information.
Remember to obtain a free backcountry use permit before heading out overnight and always contact the National Park Service for current weather and trail conditions.
